Ed Reynolds was way ahead of the whole “FAFO” thing that’s hip today. In fact, it was the find-out part that got him into the sailmaking business 50 years ago when he first walked through the door of a small Traverse City sailmaking operation simply looking for work. He had no idea how to make a sail, or how to use one for that matter, but the smell and the sounds of the loft that day were “just a magical thing.” Reynolds harassed the loft’s owner for weeks, even begging to work for a week without pay. Once he was in, he devoured every book about sailing he could get his hands on, and within three months he was running production and building sails. And soon enough, he was handling all the customers. Little did he know at the time that the art and science of sailmaking was his natural calling, a profession that has carried him to the pinnacles of grand-prix sailing.

Considered by peers to be one of the most sophisticated sailmakers of his generation, his chops as sailing team and program manager are equally impressive. Humble and hardworking, his mates would say, doesn’t even begin to describe his character. Success—and he’s enjoyed heaps of it, has never been about him or his winning sails. It’s always been about boatspeed. And perspective. And a life well lived in Traverse City. 

Reynolds recently stepped down from the presidency from Quantum Sails, passing the role to his longtime colleague Andrew Scott, allowing him time to enjoy the fruits of his new labor of love—he now tends a small vineyard and is perfecting his Merlot and Rose blends one small batch at a time. Without all the global travel he’ll have more time and space to reflect on his remarkable lifetime in the sport. Before we let Reynolds traipse off into the vines for winter pruning, we extracted some wisdom to share with us. It’s but small tasting. For a deeper and more full-bodied conversation, hit the QR code.

Was there a moment as a young sailmaker that really launched your career?

Yes. I was unbelievably lucky, and for no deserving reason. It was a boat called Collaboration, a Nelson/Marek 46 built in the early days of IMS. It was unbelievable how fast this boat was. We won everything with it—Key West, Bermuda Race, both Mackinaw races, and everything we entered. The boat was so good that even we couldn’t screw it up. And then all of a sudden, I became this super genius, sailmaker. To be honest, we had an above average crew, but that boat just opened the doors to all sorts of opportunities. Eventually, I really didn’t care that much about the sailing part. I wanted to build teams, grow my business and live in Traverse City. I had credibility with owners because I had a successful business. I became a good enough sailor that the pros would say, ‘Well, Ed knows what we need to perform. He’ll never give us everything we want, but we always get what we need.’

Fifty years of being in and amongst the sports great programs, you could write a book of the things you’ve learned, but what stands out?

One of the most important things I’ve learned was from Bill Shore, and it’s a cliché among the teams, but he said, to paraphrase him, ‘You can only control about 65 percent of what takes place on a racecourse, but the one thing you can absolutely control is your boatspeed. You have to spend all your time on boatspeed. With starts and tactics, who knows what’ll happen. All of that you cannot control, but if boatspeed negatively impacts your results, then shame on you.’ And he’s 100 percent correct. So, the most important part of where I really tried to focus on as a sailmaker was boatspeed. One thing I find interesting about it is the difference in boatspeed between a fleet with 20 boats and a fleet with 60 boats. In big fleets your entire speed program has to be completely different because there will be times when you are downspeed, and, here you still need to be the fastest downspeed boat. It’s all relative.

In working with such high-end programs over the years, especially the Quantum TP52 program of late, what have you seen that really makes a difference with the sail trim between those that have the boatspeed and those that don’t?

The best sail trimmers are the best rig setup people. That’s one of the things that has really developed over the last 10 years and has made a major difference. Knowing exactly the up range and bottom range of a sale and knowing exactly what you have to do to the rig in order to maximize the different ranges that you’re trying to sail in is so important. A really good rig setup guy, as a sail trimmer, will end up manipulating his sail around to get the shape they need. Or at least closer to the right shape than a less experienced crew can.

The post The Short Story of Ed Reynold’s Long Career appeared first on Sailing World.

Any summer sailing in New England is hard to beat, so Quantum expert Carter White breaks down how you can make the most of your time in Marblehead.

I have raced in and around Marblehead since the late 1980s and witnessed almost every condition, from a drifter to a hurricane. I’ve probably sailed in every location the clubs use for their various racing circles, and I’ve also helped organize the ONE Regatta (previous PHRF-NE and current Ted Hood Regattas) and the 2014 J/105 North Americans. Through it all, I’ve seen that each circle brings its challenges, trends, and conditions, which I will try to break down here.

Outside Course (aka Outside Line)

The outside course is the area furthest offshore and most to the right of the harbor when looking away from land. The course is normally centered 3.25 NM at 175° (magnetic) from Marblehead Bell RG “FR” but can often be closer to shore. Typical conditions for this course would be no wind in the morning and a sea breeze filling in during the afternoon, around 1pm or so. If this is the case and there haven’t been any significant storms immediately ahead of the sailing day, you should have relatively flat water with possible one-foot easy rollers. 

The key to success is to figure out the current/tide. The current/tide does not go out from land and into land during the ebb and flood, but the current goes left to right or right to left (looking out from shore toward the southeast), moving slightly northeast/southwest.

The wind will fill from the southeast, probably around 130 to 150 degrees, and it will be stronger away from land as it fills. The current is usually uniform across the course, and, with a predicted direction of 170 to 180 degrees, the race committee will often skew the course to the right. The RC knows people want to go left, so the skew keeps things even. But even with the skew to the right, the pressure is more to the left, so starting at the pin and going left is key upwind. Downwind you almost always stay straight at the windward mark and work the edge of the course down to the corner and gybing on layline or close to it. This keeps you in the bigger pressure downwind on the course’s left side (looking upwind). All of this is happening early in the day of racing, around 1pm to 3pm.

After 3pm, you need to start looking at the right side of the course. Typically, the lower left will still be favored, but watch out for the top right as the wind moves from 130 to 170 degrees or more as the day progresses. Often the shift doesn’t outweigh the pressure, but if you see large, puffy clouds over Boston (to your right looking upwind), you can predict the right shift will happen. Finally, remember the current as it will be critical for starting and laylines, not necessarily for course-side advantages. History has rewarded the folks who won the corners on this course and timed the shift and pressure perfectly.

As you are waiting for the typical conditions I’ve described or are in a different northerly breeze with predictions to shift, watch the clouds onshore over Salem. If the big, puffy clouds start forming, the sea breeze is coming. The land breeze will continue if wispy high clouds remain and there are no puffy clouds.

Finally, like anywhere, the typical conditions occur 50 percent of the time, while anything else happens the other 50 percent. In this case, be prepared for chop and rollers. The current is strong, and when going against the breeze, it will create a decent 1- to 2-foot chop on top of one- to three-foot rollers that may or may not line up with the chop. If this is the case, make sure to have plenty of twist and power; you will need the twist to drive around the waves and keep the helm light while still having enough power to go through the occasional wave you can’t miss. In most boats, this means playing the backstay almost constantly.

The Halfway Rock Line

Much of the outside line details and tips and tricks can also apply to the halfway rock line. However, the current can be trickier on this course. This circle is typically centered 2 NM at 135°   (magnetic) from Marblehead Bell RG “FR” and is more exposed to Salem Bay and the Danvers River. Here you will have potentially two different currents: one coming from and going to land (in and out of Salem west/east) and another northeast/southwest like the outside course. This creates more disturbed water and chop than the outside course.

With the typical conditions I’ve described, the starting line will be set closer to shore and in one current, while the weather mark will be in a completely different current. This is key for starting and approaching the marks, and can make or break the downwind leg, possibly because you may want to use the current to your advantage when picking a side. 

The Tinkers Line

In my experience, this course can be the trickiest. This circle is just outside Marblehead Harbor and closest to Marblehead Neck, the largest land mass. On this circle, you can see up to three different current directions on one leg, and the land can become a factor creating a constant geographical advantage. On this line, it is imperative to have a training partner to sail upwind on opposite tacks for five minutes or more and then come back together to see who is ahead or behind. There will often be a significant difference, and it will only be clear sometimes which side will win. In my experience, heading towards land has paid off in most conditions on this course; however, there are times you must go offshore to get more breeze.  

The Brimbles Line

This is typically where the lasers or smaller boats sail as it is protected by islands on almost all sides of the course. It is closest to Salem Harbor and is the most inner course. Its challenge is boat traffic on the weekends. Many sailboats and powerboats are leaving and returning to Salem and Marblehead Harbors, and this course is at the crossroad of those trips. This often causes square chop even when the wind and current are lined up for a smooth day. On this line, you are closest to Salem Harbor and Danvers River, which will be the predominant currents (generally west/east). Due to the proximity of the islands, the winds are much less stable, so this circle typically has much shiftier winds. Here, the shifts become more important than the pressure, so staying on the lifted tack is critical.

If you have any questions, get in touch with a Quantum representative to discuss your racing further. Good luck, and welcome to Marblehead!

The post Summer Sailing in Marblehead appeared first on Sailing World.

Spring brings excellent weather conditions that arguably make it the best time to sail in Annapolis. Make sure your boat is tuned and trimmed properly so you can quickly get where you want to go on the course. Then it’s heads-up sailing to navigate the strong tidal currents and potentially shifty breeze.

Early May might be the ideal time to sail in Annapolis: the average temperature is a pleasant 69 degrees, the average wind direction is west, and the average speed is 7 knots. When you sail in Annapolis, you can almost always count on strong currents and choppy conditions due to motorboat traffic. The current flow in the Chesapeake Bay is tidal − flood tides run south to north and ebb the opposite. Many flowing rivers and large tributaries affect the current in the bay, meaning published tide tables are not 100-percent accurate and highly dependent on location and recent rainfall. It is paramount to keep an eye on the many signs in the bay that can give you hints to the fluctuations in strength and direction of currents, such as the tankers anchored in the shipping channel, the buoys, and the many area crab pots.

These factors make determining when the current will switch in the lighter breezes critical to top finishes. In the spring, the ebb tide is usually much stronger than the flood tide, due to the amount of rainfall and spring tides. Keep an eye on all available signs and remember the current rips in the channel’s deeper water. Also remember to set up your boat for the chop on the weekends. Between swirling currents and boat traffic, smooth water is hard to find in the Chesapeake Bay this time of year.

One of the many challenges Annapolis presents in the spring is the changing wind conditions caused by the approaching frontal systems or the lack of approaching systems. Determining the weather system you are racing in will help you plan which wind direction will prevail in the day’s races.

Here are some tips to understand the local conditions a bit better:

• Clear skies and air temperatures that are warmer than the water temp is a typical spring day, and it’s not a good combination for breeze this time of year. The sea breeze has a hard time developing due to the cooler temperatures, so expect light air overall.

• Southwest is the prevailing wind direction during the year, but southerlies are generally weak in the spring unless accompanied by a frontal system.

• As a front goes through Annapolis, the wind will clock to the west until it reaches the northwest, which is the prevailing cold front direction. Winds will blow from the northwest at 20-knots for a few days and then clock to the northeast and die, depending on the strength of the front.
  
• Westerlies are unstable with 25-degree shifts (or more….) and heavy puffs. Watch for more wind from the Severn River and off the closest weather shoreline.

• Northerlies are somewhat stable in pressure, but with the breeze coming across the land the shifts are fast and typically very large.

• Easterlies are dying breezes and especially weak when following a dying northerly. Often the far right pays because of the new direction and the far left pays because of old pressure. The middle normally suffers.

If you have any questions, reach out to the Quantum Annapolis team or come chat with us during the regatta.

The post Local Knowledge for Spring Racing in Annapolis appeared first on Sailing World.

The traveler is a great sail control when it comes to fine-tuning the mainsail to maximize power and control helm and heel angle upwind. A general rule of thumb is to use the mainsheet first for the gross tuning, then fine-tune using the traveler.

Here is what a general sequence using the traveler might look like. First, set the mainsail twist using the mainsheet. Trim the sail so that the top batten is parallel to the boom and make sure the top telltale is just on the verge of stalling. Next, position the boom on the centerline with the traveler to create your baseline and position for power. In light air, this will pull the traveler car itself well up to weather in order to put the boom on centerline since the mainsheet will be eased to allow the leech to open up. As the breeze builds and the sail is sheeted harder, the traveler will drop.

As the boat begins to develop too much heel and the weather helm that goes with, it lower the traveler to keep the boat on its feet. The traveler car and the boom will be below centerline by whatever amount it takes to control heel. The traveler is perfect to control balance with the normal puffs and lulls. In the really big puffs, you may need to ease the mainsheet as well to depower, but try using the traveler whenever possible.

In more traditional masthead rigs with overlapping headsails, you can play the traveler quite extensively and make relatively small changes to mainsheet tension. On the newer breed of sailboats that have big fractional mainsails and smaller non-overlapping headsails, the traveler tends to move less, remaining closer to the centerline, and the mainsheet is played more aggressively.

The traveler is the perfect tool for balancing heel and controlling helm, especially when cruising. It also makes life easier for the autopilot! Find a good average setting for conditions and fine-tune the traveler to keep the boat from heeling excessively.

Have a sail control question? Ask the experts at Quantum Sails.

The post Back to Basics: The Traveler appeared first on Sailing World.

2017 QUANTUM KEY WEST RACE WEEK

The floater position is reserved for a very special type of sailor, often overlooked but extremely important. They’re the sailor that jumps on last minute when there is weight to be filled or a regular crew member gets food poisoning. To understand the key qualities of an exceptional floater, you must first understand the process of putting a team together.

The core of the team is typically made up of the owner, driver, boat captain, and tactician, who determines positions and then fills in gaps based on size, availability, and, most importantly, how the crew members mesh as one unit. Next is the meat, those sailors who include mast, trimmers, grinders, bow, and coach. The floater is often the teammate that holds all of the parts together and often the last position to be filled. Again, this is often based on how much weight the team has left or if a role needs to be filled

Now imagine how many moving parts are involved with the sport, and you start to understand how the floater must be comfortable with last-minute race calls or getting dropped due to weight. While floaters must have the necessary basic skills, good floaters will also be personable, motivated, and willing to jump in and help with whatever is needed.

Since the floater position is usually filled last, floaters need to be comfortable sailing with different boats and teams. The first thing a good floater should do when stepping aboard a new boat is get acquainted with the basics, including vang, outhaul, cunningham, pole, and tack line. These controls require little strength and can be performed by anyone in a pinch. If there is a call for something and the floater is closest to it, jump to the task at hand! The more that floaters step up to the plate without being asked, the more responsibilities they will be assigned.

Here are some of the important basic skills a reputable floater should develop:

• The ability to read the wind. This means understanding apparent wind and how it relates to different boats, and then asking the helm or trimmer “Can you hear me alright and is what I’m saying helpful information?”
• Knowing how to load the new winch properly, a miniscule task but one that is quite helpful in a tacking duel.
• Pack kites in an organized way, specifically the way the bow team prefers. Showing up early to organize kites is a mindless task but makes a huge difference in the boat’s performance.
• Understanding marine electronics and the ability to drive the box. Navigation knowledge is helpful not only when no one on the boat is versed, but also during coastal races and deliveries.
• A good floater needs to have the personality to fit right in regardless of the boat and make everything easier for the team. Beyond the basic skills that can be taught, floaters need to develop mental skills in order to read a team’s cues. Here are some key things to remember when you step on the boat.

HIKE IT LIKE YOU LIKE IT: Even a 100-pound floater makes a difference, though it may seem insignificant to fully hike against a 10-ton boat when all other teammates leave the rail reaching to the offset. Nonetheless, hiking is a must, and even if it makes little difference to the boat’s performance, someone on the team will recognize the floater’s effort.

KNOW WHEN TO TAP OUT: Racers are competitive and want to win, which means not showing weakness. Knowing a personal max grinding wind speed and keeping an honest eye on velocity will determine when it is appropriate to tag in someone else. Do what is best for the boat.

ALWAYS LEND A HAND: What’s the point of adding one more body helping to trim the main or carry a sail? The extra horsepower makes a difference, especially on a physically tiring boat. It is always better to jump in and be told the assistance is not needed rather than doing nothing.

READ UP: As soon as you get the green light from the team, read the sailing instructions and regatta rules. Creating a cheat sheet with change marks, start times, flag numerals, and any other useful information is a great way to stay in the know. This also applies to the general rules of sailing. Make sure you own a copy of the current rules and make sure you have a good understanding of them.

If you’re just starting out, remember that an adaptable personality, get-go attitude, and humor are what will make you a great floater and help you keep your schedule full.

This tip was brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post The Floater: A Versatile Teammate appeared first on Sailing World.

Part of managing a sailing program of any kind–be it cruising or racing–is balancing the budget. From deck hardware to bottom paint and sails, something always needs replacing or fixing. Luckily when it comes to sails, there are a few inexpensive things you can do to help you extend that budget a little further.

1. Get Your Sails Inspected

Sail inspections can bring to light not only torn stitches or tired webbing, but also use issues that may be causing damage to your sail. For example, broken stitching on the luff of the sail could indicate too much halyard tension or dimples in your spinnaker could be the result of crew pulling it down by grasping the middle of the sail instead of using the tapes.

Annual inspections should be part of every program with the goal of maximizing the life of the sail. Catching and fixing a few small problems (especially if the sail is older) can also prevent catastrophic failure on the water.

2. Recut Your Sails Every Few Years

All sails stretch and lose shape over time and through use. If you’re experiencing the tell-tale signs of stretched sails–an inability to point, difficulty steering, or lack of power under sail–it doesn’t necessarily mean you need new sails. Many sailors don’t realize sails can be recut to bring back up to 90 percent of their original shape and extend their life at a fraction of the cost of new ones. Typically, one or two recuts can be done over the life of a sail. Recutting sails has been a common practice for pro programs for years, sometimes adjusting and recutting sails between race days.

You’ll want a handful of good sail shape photos to take to the loft along with your sail. And bonus points if you take photos of your sails on an annual basis! Click here to learn how to get the best shots and start your recordkeeping. If you’re curious about the recut process and benefits, click here for an article to shed some light on what you need to know about recuts.

3. Have Your Sails Professionally Repaired

You might have saved the day with your quick fix when the spinnaker caught on a turnbuckle and started to rip, but did you remember to take it to the loft for a proper repair afterward? Onboard sail repairs are great when you need to finish the sail and get back to the dock safely, but they’re not meant to be a permanent fix. You’d be surprised how easy it is to forget you have a few strips of duct tape holding part of your sail together when it’s packed out of sight and out of mind. As you can guess, ignoring damage will not end well for the sail or your budget.

4. Check Your Rig Tune

If your rig tune is out of whack, it can significantly affect sail performance. Before you throw in the towel with your current sails, check to make sure the issue isn’t your rig. Have an expert sail with you to see what adjustments might remedy the problem. This is especially important for cruisers who don’t regularly tune their rigs for conditions the way a race program might. We have more information on that here.

5. Consider Sail Add-Ons

There are a number of sail add-ons and updates that can help improve functionality and extend their lifespan. Reefing points, UV covers, and spreader patches are all on the list. Talk to your sailmaker about what modifications can be made to help the sail work better and make it usable for a few more years.

6. Look Beyond The Sail

It is important to look at the health and setup of your boat’s entire system in order to get the most out of your sails. Not all systems are created equally, and having the right sail handling system for your needs will help reduce stress on the sails. Roller furlers are great for easily and smoothly using your headsail, especially if you have a novice crew or sail shorthanded. Mainsail handling systems, such as the Dutchman and an in-mast or boom furling system, can also come in handy and help to reduce wear-and-tear on your sail.

Of course, the right system needs to be in good shape. If the sail handling system is failing, you’re at risk of damaging your sail. Similarly, sun-rotted lines or finicky winches pose threats to sails under load, as do sticky tracks and tired blocks. Invite your sailmaker or local rep to your boat for help identifying problem areas or to discuss options for improving your sail handling systems.

You shouldn’t give up on your trusty sails just because you’re starting to experience performance issues or they’re getting older. Call your sailmaker and explore a few of these ideas before you open your checkbook to pay for a new set. If you decide a new set is the right solution, use this information and the expertise of your sailmaker to ensure your sails are setup properly and you’re using best practices and sail care services to maximize their lifespan and protect your investment.

This sail care tip brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post Getting the Most out of Your Sails appeared first on Sailing World.

Achluophobia, the fear of the dark, is the third most common phobia in the world, with nearly 75 percent of adults reporting some level of fear when the lights go out. According to researchers at the University of Toronto, the fear of darkness is directly tied to the fear of the unexpected. To truly enjoy the peacefulness and beauty of nighttime sailing, the only thing needed is proper planning and preparation to reduce the anxiety that the unexpected can bring.

PLANNING

Weather and Course

All good sailors know that planning is essential to a successful trip, but when sailing at night it is paramount. Check multiple weather sources frequently and especially in the hours leading up to sunset. Make sure you have studied your charts and know your nighttime route thoroughly. Know which areas could be problematic, the estimated time you will arrive in those locations, and who will be on watch during that time. Put your most experienced sailors or those familiar with the area on shift when entering your identified “danger zones.” Click here for a review of forecast sevices and apps to help.

Emergency Exit

While you are examining your charts, identify a few key locations (if applicable) you can divert to in the event that you face unexpected inclement weather. The lee of an island, a protected bay, or an alternative harbor facility are all options. Always have a backup plan for wind shifts and emergency situations such as injury or mechanical failure.

Timing

Plan the arrival at your destination during daylight hours, especially if you are unfamiliar with the passage or harbor. Arriving during the day gives you better visibility for unlit markers, natural hazards, and the advantage of knowledgeable harbormasters and dockhands to assist you. This may mean you need to purposefully slow down, turn off course, or speed up by motoring to arrive at your destination during the day.

WATCHKEEPING

Schedule

Unless you are sailing solo, it is a good idea to put in place a structured schedule to dictate watchkeeping duties while sailing at night. A clear schedule gives all crew members accountability during the passage and prevents individuals from getting overly fatigued and making potentially critical mistakes.

Rotations

Standard watchkeeping is set in four-hour rotations which is the amount of time needed for a full cycle of REM sleep. If there are two people aboard and you are traveling only for one night, the recommendation is to establish a four-hour solo shift, followed by a one-hour shift with both people on watch, followed by a four-hour solo shift. The hour shared shift gives the two crewmates an opportunity to make any sail changes; do a perimeter check of the boat to look for anything unusual; and check the weather, charts, and course together and make any necessary deviations from the plan. This schedule allows the person coming on shift a bit of time to thoroughly wake up before being left alone on deck. If you are keeping a watch schedule for more than one night, stick to the four hour increments so that you can continue the watch schedule for a 24-hour period.

If there are more than two people on the boat, set up a rotation with a primary, secondary, and off-shift person. The secondary person is “on call” for assistance that the primary watch keeper may need while the off-shift person gets uninterrupted sleep.

PERSONAL SAFETY & COMFORT

Safety is always the most important factor to consider when sailing, and there are several safety rules that should always be observed when sailing at night.

Lifejacket

The first and most important rule is to always wear a lifejacket…and wear it correctly. It’s a hotly debated topic whether you should choose an automatically inflating vest or a manual one (read about The Great Inflatable PFD Debate and get the lowdown on the different styles from an expert). It’s important you do your own research, assess the pros and cons of each type, and pick the system that is best for you and your adventure. Regarless which way you go, wearing a lifejacke is really is a no-brainer: It’s the single most important piece of safety gear a sailor has and is worthy of the investment needed to get one that is as comfortable as possible and includes features such as a strobe light, built-in harness, and a whistle (or someplace to store one). This is your first line of defense against a potential disaster. They may not always be fashionable or comfortable, but they are absolutely necessary while on deck – especailly at night.

Buddy System

In addition to having your PFD on at all times, it is paramount that no one ever leave the cockpit of the boat at night to check a potential issue without observing the buddy system. If the issue is minor and can wait until the next person is on deck, try your best to delay waking up your crewmates. If the problem requires immediate attention, wake up the secondary person and explain the issue. Once that person is on deck, attach yourself to the boat using a tether and proceed with the necessary repairs or sail changes. Never leave the cockpit without alerting another crew member and waiting until they are on deck.

Stay Fueled + Warm

Food, hydration, and proper attire are important considerations for nighttime crew that are easily overlooked. Having snacks, water, warm beverages, and plenty of layers within reach can make your night shift more enjoyable. Try starting with more layers than you think you will need, including a hat, socks, and gloves (even in tropical climates). It’s much easier to remove layers as you become warm than to search for the clothes you need once you become chilled. This takes energy you need to conserve for staying alert during your watch.

Think Ahead

Lastly, think of all the other things you may need to have on deck with you during your shift and have them ready when the time comes. A good kit might include a headlamp, spotlight, smart phone, headphones, Chapstick, Kindle, logbook, and writing utensil. This helps you to be considerate of your crewmates by limiting your movement on deck or going below and turning on lights to look for something you forgot. Your night-shift experience and your crewmates’ attitudes will be more positive if you spend a few minutes preparing for your watch before the sun goes down.

VESSEL CONSIDERATIONS

Conserve Energy

Keep in mind the needs and capabilities of your vessel while sailing at night. It is likely that you will use more power than you are making. Running your navigation lights, autopilot, radar, refrigeration, heat, air conditioning, water pumps, and other electronics will suck your batteries dry if you are not careful. Unless you have a wind turbine, running a generator may be the only option to keeping your battery bank from getting dangerously low. If you have to run a generator, be considerate again of your crew mates and try to run it while you are both awake or for an equal portion over two shifts. Be mindful of how much power your vessel draws and try to reduce your consumption as much as possible by using headlamps or flashlights instead of overhead lighting and hand steering for the first hour or two of your shift. Stock up on unrefrigerated snacks and beverages so you can eliminate opening and running the refrigeration systems. A significant amount of power can also be used if your vessel is set up with electric winches and roller furling systems. If possible, use the opportunity to practice trimming sails by hand. Your boat and your crewmates below will thank you for conserving power and keeping noise to a minimum.

Be Ready for Changes

If your vessel is not equipped with roller furlings, make sure that you have prepared before dark for potential sail changes, reefing, and wind shifts. If you think the wind is going to lighten up halfway through the night, have a larger geneoa rigged and ready at the bow for a quick and easy change between shifts. If the wind is going to build, make sure you know how to reef the sails and do a take-down if necessary. Always be more conservative with your sail area when traveling at night. Reef and reduce early to give yourself a wide safety margin.

The post Sailing at Night appeared first on Sailing World.

We reached out to a mix of successful sailors to find out what they want the other crew members to keep in mind to help them execute their job the best they can. Here’s what they had to say:

Bow:

“The race is not over until the spinnaker comes down. It is easy to switch to recovery mode right after crossing the finish line, but this can be costly with a messy takedown, ripped or wet sail. To go along with this, after races finish send the jib bag up before the food bag! It’s frustrating for the bow when I’m are ready to flake the jib and everybody is eating.

I am happy to see the tactician’s general awareness of the bow team. We understand tacking mid jib-flake can’t always be avoided, but a quick cleanup with everyone cooperating makes life much easier. Lastly, my lifeline is the pit position, I like when this person is attentive and stays by their position until the bow team finishes cleaning up between races!”

Mast:

“The mast is a lot easier when trimmers have patience on the set. They can pop the spinnaker open by sheeting too early and make the mast and foredeck look terrible! My key teammates are sewer and pit: a spinnaker set never works well if the trimmers, mast, sewer and pit are working independently, but when we hit on all cylinders, the set will be a thing of beauty. The other critical players to a happy mast are the tactician and helmsman. If the boat isn’t in proper orientation to the wind when it is time to take the spinnaker down disaster can strike. A great bow/mast team will make it work, but a little waggle to help collapse the spinnaker goes a long way for a clean drop.”
– Andrew Spaulding

Pit:

“Be mindful of where things are thrown. For example: a jib change on the run, I may not be the one putting the old jib or bag down below, so I ask teammates to be mindful of the flaked kite halyard. I flake it once and then spend the rest of my run focusing on weight placement, pole position, finding the leeward marks and it becomes time consuming to have my head in the boat for longer than necessary.

The pit is in the middle of two groups. When it comes to maneuvers, the bow and brain trust may not always be on the same page, and I often have to decide which one to follow. If the back of the boat is calling for something that the bow is not ready to do; I can’t force the issue. I can facilitate it, convey the sense of urgency, but I can’t take the spinnaker down or jibe it by myself. This communication becomes easier if I receive clear and timely information from either end of the boat.”
–Scott Murin

Headsail Trimmer:

“Acknowledgment of communication. If I ask a teammate to do something, they should either act on it immediately or answer ‘copy’. If there is no acknowledgment, the person making the request often asks two or three times getting louder each time. I often see this situation and, my ultimate pet peeve is when the teammate finally answers and says ‘I HEARD YOU!’ When people say “copy” I can leave the task with them and move on. My other suggestion is to make habit of saying the person’s name before making a request so their attention is grabbed and time is not wasted by repeating what they didn’t hear before their name was called (this could be the difference between a collision and a race win).” Morgan Trubovich

“A briefing with the days goals. There should be a morning discussion describing the weather, potential courses, and anything else important. After the team is on the same page, people can break into groups depending on who they need to interact with throughout the day. I talk to my offside trimmer and grinders about what situations may come up and then I talk to the main trimmer about possible sails and boat settings.

It is also important to have quiet and calm maneuvers. I like to have ongoing discussions about what’s to come so when the boat is actually turning everyone has already anticipated their weight placement and I can focus on feeling the sheet run through my hands.”
– Dave Gerber

Main Trimmer:

“The most important thing is pressure calls and relatives. A main trimmer is ‘head in the boat’ which only gives them so much feel, so consistent and accurate information are crucial for boat speed. I am happy with simple dialogue with the tactician to know what modes are expected. If we develop standard steps, it becomes easy to be on same page.

The jib and main must also cooperate, they are constantly working together to make the boat do what the tactician wants. As a main trimmer, I let the jib do what they want and communicate when they are hitting the main or when they can be tighter. It’s good to develop concise key words and terminologies for any maneuver where the main has to be fine-tuned; some examples: high build, high kill, half tack, speed build, or racing.”
– Luke Lawrence

Driver:

“I love it when new crew get onboard, listen to the race conversation and offer input where it might be lacking or where he/she can contribute value. For example, if no one is calling breeze on the rail, it’s great to have a crew take the initiative to make very concise and valuable breeze calls (Puff on in 3, 2, 1….). It’s also great when new crew take a few minutes to observe, listen and see what info or help might be needed instead of diving right in without first watching or thinking. It’s valuable when a crew member offers input and “finishes the sentence.” How many times have you heard someone say “…the right has a lot of pressure….” AND what??? Inquiring minds want to know. Finish the sentence: “… and they look strong/are headed/etc.” Completing the sentence and picture for the tactician, driver and speed team is extremely helpful. A positive attitude and imploring the “5 second rule” (does what I’m about to say make sense and is it valuable? Am I finishing the sentence with my comment? ) make any crew a welcome addition to my boat.”

Tactician:

“Come with a game face on. There is always time for bar talk, but it shouldn’t be before racing. I appreciate team members who get to the boat and prepare their position for racing. When people scatter and aren’t responsible for their area it takes away from what I need to be doing as a tactician and the performance suffers.”
– Geoff Ewenson

“Clear and short communication. I am happy when the trimmers and I are in sync with what steps we will take as conditions change. It is helpful for me to understand which way the trimmer is likely to move the leads, etc. as the breeze changes. For me, tactical input and observations are certainly invited before situations happen, especially 10 minutes before a start.”
– George Szabo

Boat Captain:

“Ask questions at the right time. I love when people want to learn and be involved with how the boat comes together, but choose a time when not much else is going on, probably not when I’ve just sat down to service a winch. I love it when each crew member takes responsibility for their station and addresses problems early, and to take it one step further if they are part of the solution whether it be a short term regatta fix or the long term ultimate fix, it’s fun to bounce ideas off others.

My life becomes easier when teammates self-delegate. I think of tasks as skilled and unskilled; if you are unsure how to help with the skilled boat work, there are always unskilled items that can be taken care of. Examples: filling water bottles, organizing down below, grabbing food and clean up. And if you still don’t know what to do, ask yourself, ‘If I were running this boat, what would I want done right now?'”
– Kyle Kant

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This article is brought to you by Quantum Sails.

The post Top Tips for Every Position Onboard appeared first on Sailing World.

Distance sailboat racing is a growing segment of our beloved sport. Offering new and different challenges, distance races around the world have attracted sailors with various degrees of offshore experience.

Part one digs into four simple onboard optimizations you can make to help ready your boat for distance racing. Here are the key takeaways to remember.

1) Weight Distribution

• Store weight in a low, centralized location and remind your crew of this.
• Remove all non-essential gear and items.
• Check cupboards and drawers for hidden items.
• Don’t skimp on safety equipment to save on weight!

2) Repeatable Settings

• Useful locations to mark repeatable settings:
• backstay
• halyards and blocks
• jib leads
• ​Use tape and deck stickers to mark and record successful settings.
• Write down settings and conditions and experiment until you find the best mix for your boat.

3) Bow Lacing

• Lacing material can be as simple as closeline from the hardware store.
• If you don’t have eyes or a rail already along the base, tie bungie cording between the bottom of your stantions for the base of the lacing. This avoids the need to drill holes for anchor points.
• “V” and Diamond lacing patterns are most common – if you run straight lines, space them 12-18 inches apart.

4) Setting an offboard lead

• Use an extra winch to control the new sheet after it’s attached before you release the old sheet.
• Make a tweaker line with a snap shackle and a snatch block to control the leech of the sail.

Stay tuned for parts 2 and 3 to get a step-by-step look at reefing your mainsail and performing headsail changes.

The post Distance Racing 101 appeared first on Sailing World.

Sometimes the right images appears before our eyes and help us understand how to make a hard maneuver feel easy. That’s how I felt when I saw these four great shots of two C&C-30s rounding a weather mark. One does a standard set, with the goal of staying on starboard tack after the mark rounding. The other does a jibe-set, often referred to as a “Zambuka”. Each does a great job, and it’s worth looking at the reasons why.

The first thing I see is how the lead boat protects the low road on the offset leg, knowing that they want to turn left at the mark to get onto port jibe. Sailing a lower angle shuts out any trailing boats at the zone and guarantees the ability to legally maneuver at the mark. From a boathandling perspective, the leader has pre-fed the clew of the gennaker around the headstay to help it set easily when hoisted. Many teams like to do this, but it’s not necessary if the jib is handled properly during the maneuver.

Both boats have their gennaker tacks pulled out to the ends of their poles. This helps spread the sail out for the hoist, but comes with some risk. If this part of the sail isn’t controlled, it can fall in the water and cause a trawl. Your bow team needs to understand and manage the risk, which differs from boat to boat depending on the way your foredeck work area is configured and whether or not your boat has lifelines.

As each boat bears away to hoist, the crew pulls the jib in close to centerline to allow the gennaker to go up easier and, if doing a jibing set, helps keep the light, downwind sail from blowing through the foretriangle during the jibe (photo 1).

The lead boat does a great job of turning slowly as the gennaker is hoisted. Too fast of a turn makes the sail try and blow through the foretriangle and increases the chances that it will fill before it’s up all the way. Slower is better, allowing the kite to be hoisted, and then the sheet eased as you come up to the final exit angle.

On the trailing boat, a smooth downturn also helps the helmsman find the exit angle and the trimmer fill the kite. Sail low enough to take away most of the heel, but still high enough that the sail will blow away from the rig and fill, once up.

Note that the leader started this process about a half a length ahead, and is now giving up distance to the trailing boat. The distance lost from this maneuver is part of the risk/reward calculation that the tactician makes before making this tactical call (photo 2).

For the “Zambuka”, the telltale sign that the turn has matched the hoist well is when the main falls across to the new side at the same time that the kite halyard gets to the top of the mast. Once the gennaker is fully up, the jib is eased or lowered to help the downwind sail fill. If you haven’t pulled the kite clew around early, the jib trimmer must be sure the sail has gone around the headstay before easing the jib. This prevents the kite from going through the foretriangle, under the headstay.

For the normal set, you know you nailed the turn when the kite fills easily, adding power instantly, but without feeling like you are at risk of broaching. This also gives your team a chance to get into their longer-term positions so you can find your optimum speed (photo 3).

Photo 4 shows team members settling into their spots to make the boat go fast. Time will tell which one chose the correct, tactical option. For now, we can see that the trailing boat has gained a length or more on the leader, but the leader will be on starboard when they meet again. You will spend some distance to do an “Indian” set, but if your team can nail it like this one did, you can be confident to make it happen when conditions require it.

A couple of final thoughts about both of these maneuvers:

• Plan ahead and let your team know what you’re thinking. The more time they have to understand the next move, the more likely it will go well.

• Leave an option to change the plan. We generally have a percentage call on how likely it is that we will do either move. But the team knows that it can always change.

• Practice. Yeah, do that . . . it’s important.

• Have a spotter. We always designate a team member to tell us what the boats near us are doing. Often we have a “what-if” plan in place so everyone knows what we’re doing based on whether the other boat is doing “X” or “Y”. The spotter calls out the other boat’s plan, if it can be determined, and then we know our options. This is another reason not to pull the kite clew around the headstay too early, as it tells other teams what you are doing.

• Watch and learn. Take time to watch how other teams do things. That perspective can shine a light or areas of risk and show you different ways to get the job done. The more you know, the better you can be.

• Relax. When you’ve thought things through, practiced well and communicated the plan you can execute your maneuvers with confidence.

The post Nailing the Spinnaker Set appeared first on Sailing World.